My marathon land journey from Poland to the UK had three stops- in Berlin, Cologne, and Brussels.
Last time I was in Berlin I had avoided Daniel Liebeskind's Jewish Museum, thinking that his idiosyncratic style, which is easily recognizable no matter what the site, was an example of the gratuitous, textureless form-finding I am fighting against. This time, I went in, and I surprised myself by liking it. The muted expression of concrete feels very appropriate and respectful, a calm acknowledgement of a turbulent history.
There were pieces of pottery and brick embedded in the layers. I had just visited the Berlin Wall memorial, right next to the chapel, and it made me wonder how much rubble from the site was used in its construction.
At 6:30am the following morning, after having slept fitfully on the night train, I marched across Köln with all my luggage just for a glimpse of one of my favourite buildings, the Kolumba museum by Peter Zumthor. I was rewarded by the sight and feel of the wall, still retaining the night's coolness, but lit by the early sunshine.