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To attach the seat of the chair to the frame, I chiselled out two perpendicular grooves on the bottom of the seat. This is the kind of work that a CNC router would do very well. However, once I found the right technique, it went pretty quickly. I just had to make sure to be very accurate with the tracing at the beginning because I am counting on the snug fit between the grooves and the frame to hold the seat in place.

First, using the flat side of the chisel, I marked the sides of the groove down to the depth I wanted.
Then, using the bevelled side of the chisel, I knocked out the material from the middle.


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Clay used for making bricks must be mixed with fine-grained inert material to prevent cracking during drying and firing. Normally, sand is used, but grog, crushed fired brick, can serve the same purpose. I crushed some of the leftover tiles that we made in April and mixed them into a test batch of clay. I don't think this is a viable option for all the bricks due to time constraints, but it is good to know that all the materials for the brick itself can come from the same site.

Chair 1

I've titled this post optimistically 'chair 1' because I hope to make more chairs in the future. This one was very much an experiment, and there are many things I would like to correct for the next.

Kiln Stacking

Oval kiln with rectangular bricks, Castel Viscardo, Italy

Hoffman kiln, near Radzymin, Poland

Stacking a kiln with bricks to allow for ventilation and even firing is quite an art. As well, the places where they are touching during firing often get 'kiss marks', lighter patches of colour, so the stacking influences the final appearance of the brick.

One thing about having a non-rectangular brick, though, is that it is very easy to stack them in a way that allows the passage of air.

I ended up just laying them directly on top of each other, in two layers of three courses. This allows me to fire 105 bricks per kiln
Now, I just have to hope for the best...